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Fresh coastal mussels (steamed and drenched in olive oil and lemon juice), served with a side salad (no iceburg lettuce here), a basket of bread, plus freshly caught grilled fish with zucchini and greens topped with roasted tomatoes. Location? Split, the largest coastal city in Croatia. We feasted on this magnificent lunch at Šperun while waiting for our high-speed ferry to whisk us away to an island called Vis. Let’s just say lunch remained with us only for a short while. One very fast boat and one rocky sea makes for two very distraught travelers. ‘Nuff said.

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